Culture: TEPITO

Tepito, the infamous Mexico City neighborhood that is sometimes referred to as “Barrio Bravo”, lies closer to normalcy than most would expect. The rough and tumble barrio, which is often referenced in the same line as stolen goods or Santa Muerte, lies less than a kilometer from the tourist destination the Zócalo. A wondering tourist would quickly realize they walked into one of the most dangerous DF barrios if they walked too far north into the land of Tepito.

Despite the bad rap, the barrio which lies in Colonia Morelos and the Cuauhtémoc borough, is full of hard working citizens. Most of the permanent residents, and not so permanent occupants, work extremely hard to make a meager living.

Tepito consists of 72 blocks, holding an estimated 120,000 people. Many residents live in apartments and makeshifts home for free. Paying no rent to building owners who gave up on collecting rent decades ago.

The colorful tianguis (open air marketplaces often noted for bright colored tarps), begin to take form as soon as the sun comes up across Tepito. The complete marketplaces are taken down and put up daily. Shelves, make-shifts roofs, and complete product lines are compacted and carried home after each day of hustling. Some may question the hard work that goes into making a few pesos a day, yet the locals who own their own mini-business usually do not.

The barrio is often referred to as a trend setter for the metro, as the markets often get bootleg music, movies, and fake products before the real thing can hit the city.

The barrios rouge status, combined with its closeness to the Zócalo, has made it the target of extermination multiple times by top government officials. Despite the attempts, Tepito still hold strong. In fact, Tepito is believed to have developed from the same style lower class marketplace the Aztecs held in the same area.

Having traveled through Mexico City many times, I had yet to visit Tepito. Having the perfect opportunity to visit the barrio, I decided to start it off right, at the famed Santa Muerte shrine.

I opted to take the metro and get off at the Lagunilla stop, going for the long way. People traveling the metro are typically courteous, going great lengths to keep from staring or bumping in the close quarters.

As I prepared to get off the metro, I noticed a shady looking police officer staring me down. He had his bag, apparently packed to head to Tepito for a day of work. No matter what I did, his eyes never relaxed from the death stare he was penetrating me with. The officer never said a word, so I went about my business.

Being slightly disorientated after getting off the metro I started off walking the wrong way. My main goal at the moment was to get away from the staring police officer who seemed to be following me. After finding myself at Paseo de la Reforma from going the wrong direction, I realized I had a pretty good walk on my hands in one of Mexico City’s toughest barrios. At least the cop was out of my sight.

I started on the 2km walk headed east towards the Santa Muerte shrine on calle Alfareria. As I walked down Heroes de Granaditas, which is easier to find on maps as EJE 1, the marketplace along the busy avenue was taking form. The stands and makeshift shops were beginning to take full effect as people bustled up the street making deals.

I stopped a few times at the street stalls, browsing the fake sports apparel and DVD’s. The stalls are often run by older owners, who seem to be helped by children the age of their grandchildren.

A few blocks before the shrine, is a massive wall mural of famous Tepito natives. Numerous successful boxers have came out of this tough neighborhood.

I finally reached Alfareria and hooked a left to head to the shrine. The street was fairly empty except for 10 or so street dwellers that appeared to sleep on the street across from Santa Muerte.

The shrine was not as large as expected, but very well kept. An older man attended the store next door, which sold trinkets and Santa Muerte emblems. The odor of marijuana in the air was heavy, as a bowl slowly burned marijuana buds in front of the shrine. At least 50 candles burned in an open air room next to the shrine. They appeared to have been lit over the last evening.

As a non-devoted yet infatuated Santa Muerte fan, I paid my respects to the shrine. I found myself running my hands over my Santa Muerte tattoos that I had gotten years ago as I walked away from the solemn shrine.

 I again decided to walk the distance as I headed out for my next stop, giving myself time to soak up a lively Tepito afternoon. My only concern was avoiding the non-Tepito resident cop who had a staring problem.